When the owner of this stunning Corolla wanted to build a light and agile street/track car, he spared no expense in backing up the whole effort. After all, it was supposed to deliver a high level of performance in a car show-worthy package. Quite difficult and very costly, but based on the outcome and the mods that it currently boasts of and the numerous car show awards which it has already garnered. This show worthy and track ready Corolla has perfectly accomplished what the owner wanted.

The fun starts once you pop the hood where a very detailed, 20-valve, 4AGE, “blacktop” engine resides between its fender wells. Prepped and rebuilt by well-known Toyota specialist engine builder Fil Gulfin of Gulfspeed, he utilized stouter aftermarket parts like forged pistons, cams, cam gears, valve springs, and a metal head gasket to keep the engine bullet-proof at sustained high rpm’s. Just like most normally aspirated engine set ups that are squeezed for every ounce of performance, they have resorted to oversized forged pistons and the 20-valve cylinder head has been fully massaged. These are just some of the important mods to undertake when building a high performance N/A engine. Forged pistons offer durability and increased displacement, while proper cylinder head work optimizes the flow of the intake and exhaust charge. Together these are vital steps in making the engine put out more power. The factory ECU was then replaced in favor of an aftermarket unit from MINE’s and a Greddy E-manage piggyback ECU. Doing so enables the engine to be dialed in with a custom setting that lets it operate under a more aggressive fuel and ignition signal as compared with the conservatively programmed stock ECU. In addition, this lets the engine make full use of the different engine mods to make even more power.

Since this is a dedicated track/street car, suspending this lightweight runner is a set of TEIN Mono-Flex coil-over dampers along with an Electronic Damping Force Controller (EDFC). What’s great about Tein’s EDFC is that it permits on-board damper setting changes to suit varying road/track conditions. Excess body roll is further limited by thicker TRD anti-roll bars and strut bars at the fore and aft. In keeping with the show theme, it rolls on a multi-spoked ARD Monoblock 17-inch wheels shod with the requisite and super sticky Advan AD08 tires. Apart from the unique Euro-2 front fascia, the Corolla’s exterior lines remains stock with the exception of a subtle body skirt and a front chin spoiler. This is quite a refreshing sight among the hordes of builds that have numerous custom body panels.

Inside, the JDM-themed interior is further stressed with the best aftermarket performance parts that Japan has to offer, like the Bride bucket seats, Defi gauges, Nardi steering wheel and lots more, leaving enough space for a complete audio/video system to boot. Overall, this is one well-built Corolla that’s a done deal for it has literally everything you could want or think of putting in, plus so much more.

Engine Mods
TODA cams, cam gears, valve springs, head gasket, and timing belt. Forged pistons, Exedy lightened flywheel, ACT 6 pack clutch, Greddy oil cooler, TRD plug wires,
Cold air intake, Cusco oil catch can, Fuel pressure regulator, MINE’s ECU, Greddy E-Manage (ultimate) 140 wHP (dyno’d)

Suspension/Brake Mods
TEIN Mono-Flex coil-over dampers with EDFC, TRD anti-roll bars, TRD strut bar, DBA (slotted/cross-drilled) big brake upgrade,

Interior Mods
BRIDE bucket seats and custom door panel upholstery, Defi gauges, Nardi steering wheel,

Wheels/Tires
17-inch ARD Monoblock Wheels
Advan Neova AD08

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12►

The 370Z came about when Nissan thought of refining the already alluring 350Z and looked for aspects that could be improved upon. Thankfully, it now sports more power, better handling and even blips the throttle for you during down shifts. Seriously, I mean what’s not to like about the 370Z? Well, if you’re a performance enthusiast this only serves as a starting point towards more dyno-busting power and awesome looks.

Under the hood the 370Z is powered by an all-aluminum, 3.7-liter, V6 engine (VQ37VHR). The N/A engine comes with Nissan’s Variable Valve and Lift Control and produces 332 bhp. Closer inspection on this particular engine will reveal an aftermarket intake system from HKS. Taking advantage of the VQ engine’s twin intake system, HKS developed their own dual open element HKS racing suction kit. The kit comes with lightweight dual aluminum suction pipes that allow more air to flow more smoothly. More importantly it comes with HKS’ high-flowing wet 2-layer dual density polyurethane filter element and Super Funnel for the absolute in performance. Next up on the mods list is a Powerhouse Amuse titanium exhaust. I’m sure most of you know who this company is and what they’re capable of making. Just think of them as Japanese exotica and you get the idea. Being made from titanium means its very, very light. How light? Well, the stock unit roughly weighs 46lbs while the Amuse unit weighs a scant 13.6lbs! As for the bling factor, the burnt blue color on the ends of the muffler housing and on the exhaust tips really look cool. Performance-wise the intake and the exhaust mod should probably add more than fifteen or even more horses at the wheel and plus ten or more clicks on the torque.

On the outside, this 370Z looks unlike any other out there as it has an Amuse Vestito body kit to boast of. Aside from performance products, Amuse has also been known to produce well-designed body kits and this one stands as one of their best work so far. From the subtle splitters that ride on the edges of the front bumper to the flowing side skirts as well as the rear bumper treatment, it really screams JDM Tuner. Finishing off the exterior mods is a rear wing that’s also made by Powerhouse Amuse. Those particular about stance should probably take notice of how this 370Z sits as it has been equipped with lowering springs from Tanabe that lower it by an inch or two. This brought even closer the massive black finished CE28 wheels from Volk racing that’s wearing Bridgestone Potenza rubber for a neat stance. Overall, with all its subtle yet costly and effective mods this 370Z is righteously far from stock and should also be aptly named Vestito for in Italian it means ‘well dressed’ or suit and this is definitely one well-dressed 370Z!

Engine Mods:
HKS Racing Suction Air Filters
Powerhouse Amuse Titanium Exhaust

Suspension Mods
Tanabe lowering springs

Exterior Mods
Amuse Vestito Body Kit
Amuse Rear Wing

Wheels
RAYS Volk Racing CE28N

Tires
Bridgestone Potenza

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During the seventies, Hiroyuki Hasegawa, and his partner Mr. Kitagawa decided to start an aftermarket tuning company. Together with a capital infusion from Sigma Automotive Co. they started tuning engines and producing high performance parts. (Hence the name “HKS”). Aside from their popular turbocharger kits, mufflers and high end coilover’s, HKS is also well known for their electronic products like standalone ECU’s turbo timers and electronic boost controllers.

In today’s tuning scene its no secret that performance plus electronics equals more power. Case in point here is this tuned EVO-X that showcases how much additional horses can be attained by simply using electronic products from HKS. More particularly the HKS F-Con V-Pro, which is a stand-alone, fully programmable ECU. While this can be considered as a major mod due to its hefty cost and the fact that it has to be dyno-tuned. Keep in mind that this is still a bolt-on part with no internal mods required. According to HKS, “the HKS F-CON V Pro is a feature-loaded standalone engine management system that connects as easily as a “piggy-back” fuel and timing controller”. While it may sound simple enough, but what it really does is introduce a whole new ignition and fueling map based on the mods made. As such, the engine will be more responsive to throttle inputs and raise torque curves at the bottom to mid-rpm levels.

So just how much additional horses did it come up with? Thanks to Tommy Teng of DTM/Autotechnika who did the ECU tweaking on his Dynapack dyno, this EVO-X now pumps out an impressive 344whp (250whp stock baseline) and a gut-pulling 339 ft/lbs of torque. Another advantage to having a stand-alone ECU like this HKS unit is that it allows the tuner to dial-in a whole new set of parameters should additional engine mods are to be done in the future like aftermarket performance cams, injectors, pistons and stuff.

On the outside, its hard not to notice the aggressive looking, time-attack inspired body kit. This is from the popular bespoke body kit maker in Japan called Varis.

To be used for their own time attack EVO-X, Varis developed a special lightweight series of carbon body parts to help not only give a more purposeful look to the exterior but also generate higher levels of front and rear down force. The end result is a multi-piece body kit, which consists of the hood, front fenders, front & rear bumpers and side skirts. Aside from serving its aesthetic purpose, it also enables the car to shed a lot of unwanted weight. Now no tuned car would be complete without bits of carbon fiber and this one has it in the form of canards and the requisite rear wing. The 19-inch black colored CE28 wheels from Volk Racing also lends a lot of character to the overall look and stance of the car. Sticky Yokohama Advan sport tires keep it firmly planted on the road. Footwork is achieved through a set of TEIN Flex coil over with EDFC while Brembo calipers and discs provide stopping power. Combining attainable high horsepower levels with serious tuner aesthetic stuff is quite the norm for today’s tuner car. Thanks to companies like HKS and Varis, EVO owners can get the best Japanese technology straight onto their cars.

Engine: HKS racing Suction Filter Reloaded, HKS blow off valve, HKS Hi-Power Twin Exhaust, HKS F-Con V-Pro Electronic Management System, HKS CAMP 2 HKS EVC 6 Boost Controller
Suspension: Tein Flex Coilovers with EDFC
Interior: Recaro SR bucket seats, Momo steering wheel
Exterior: Varis '09 Version body kit, Varis carbon fiber rear wing
Wheels: Volk Racing CE28N Wheels (19-inch), Advan Sport tires (275/30ZR19)

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Right off the bat, the current Nissan GT-R makes no pretensions regarding what it can do on the track. In fact it has proven itself to be one of the fastest production cars around any racetrack. This actually comes as no surprise for Nissan engineers loaded it with state of the art technology. With over four hundred plus horses from a twin turbo V-6 engine and a “Nurburgring-tuned” suspension, it’s no slouch. Why they loaded it to the hilt stems from Nissan’s mantra that they should do everything they can to make it extremely fast and handle exceptionally.

Just like previous GT-R models that have been modified by various Japanese high performance tuners, it didn’t take long for the current GT-R to enter the aftermarket-tuning scene. As we all know this is a realm where the possibilities, as they say are endless. As such, we have Dolf Santiago’s tuned GT-R from Emperor Motorsports. His shop needs no intro at all as it specializes in selling hardcore aftermarket performance parts and accessories from Japan. In addition, it also offers periodic maintenance services on high performance cars. But what makes it even greater now is the fact that it’s the authorized dealer of HKS parts and lubricants in the Philippines.

Going back to Dolf’s highly tuned GT-R, occupying the top spot on its list of mods is the HKS GT800 kit. Aside from its very hefty price tag, this advanced turbo kit is not a simple bolt-on kit. For starters, the whole engine must be removed to facilitate the mods. Before advancing to the GT800 kit, it needs the components found on the GT600 kit. It’s really so advanced that HKS does not offer any warranty as to what can happen to the engine. The said kit comes with a comprehensive list of equipment that includes, Special GTII Turbines, Heat Resistant Cast Exhaust Manifolds, GTII (50mm) Wastegates and aluminum piping’s. According to HKS, the GT800 Turbo Kit with “Symmetrical Twin Turbo Layout” combined with other HKS performance products has the potential to increase the R-35′s engine performance to 800+ horsepower”. Local tuning guru Tommy Teng of DTM/Autotechnika was responsible for pulling out the motor while Dolf flew in Lester Wong of HKS Singapore who dialed-in the HKS F-Con V-Pro ECU. Another notable and very audible mod is the HKS Superior R-Spec exhaust system. Being the high-end model of the HKS exhaust systems, it’s made of full titanium and very, very lightweight. Hearing it howl through the titanium tips during high rpm throttle bursts as the GT-R goes through the gears is nothing short of spectacular and addicting.

After more ECU tweaking on the DTM/Autotechnika Dynapack Dyno, Tommy Teng was able to extract over 700 plus horses at the wheel and 600+ lb-ft of torque. Despite not being able to reach the 800+ target, this is just due to the lack of internal mods such as forged pistons and heavy-duty con rods. Overall, this is certainly a considerable figure and feat, given that a stock GT-R is already rated at 480 horses. As compared to the explosive power burst of let’s say a tuned EVO or an STi, Dolf comments that the GT-R’s power delivery is more consistent whether in the low, mid or high rpm levels. While I can truly attest to that, but what really got my attention was the linear and neck-pulling acceleration of this beast that really pushes your back hard on the bucket seat. Despite its hefty weight, the addition of stiffer aftermarket lowering springs from Mine’s limits the amount of body roll together with wide Bridgestone rubber. With a well-designed silhouette, Dolf simply added slight exterior touches. A Zele front lip spoiler and a carbon fiber hood is all that’s needed to assert its performance factor. With all the mods done to it, Dolf’s R-35 certainly lives up to its predecessors in all aspects of tuning.

Engine: HKS GT800 kit (Special GTII Turbines, Heat Resistant Cast Exhaust Manifolds, GTII (50mm) Wastegates, Aluminum pipes, HKS racing suction air filter, HKS Superior Spec R Exhaust system, HKS F-Con V-Pro, HKS EVC Electronic Boost Controller
Suspension: Mine's lowering coil springs
Interior: Bride limited edition Cuga seats
Exterior: Zele front lip spoiler, Varis carbon fiber hood
Wheels: Prodrive GC05K 20-inch wheels, Bridgestone Potenza RE070R tires F- 255/40ZRF R-285/35ZRF20

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Enabling your Drivetrain to handle your “tuned” engine

Opening the carbon fiber hood of your ride, you gaze at all those engine mods you made, like the HKS fuel rail, the SARD fuel pressure regulator, the TODA cams and adjustable cam gears, the RC fuel injectors, and all the go-fast engine goodies that just goes on and on. However, come to think of it, can your engine’s drivetrain handle the additional power from all those mods? In most cases, we tend to concentrate all our efforts towards the engine alone and forget the other systems that must also be upgraded. Keep in mind that with newfound engine power comes a more aggressive driving attitude as well as hard launches and higher rpm’s. Now with that kind of abuse, something could get damaged and might give in without you knowing it, like your transmission, or differential. So before you start picking up shattered pieces of your drivetrain on the track or on the street, let’s look at some of the components that could use some upgrading.

The Clutch

Simply put, the clutch acts as the connection point between the engine and the transmission and serves as the main source of power distribution. Now if you subject your stock clutch with high-torque loads and high-rev launches from your “tuned” engine, sooner or later the friction material on the plate, which is there to help the clutch grab the spinning flywheel will get so hot and just glaze over that it will now be unable to latch onto the flywheel, resulting to clutch slippage and lost power. As a solution, there are various aftermarket clutch companies to choose from like Exedy, HKS, and Centerforce, just to name a few that offer performance clutches that are able to withstand high temperatures ranging from a stage one 500-degree street clutch all the way to the stage three 1,200-degree competition clutch depending on your needs. Now before you get any crazy ideas like running a racing clutch in a streetcar, better keep reading. Because as cool as it may sound, the fact is that racing clutches need to be really hot in order for it to engage properly, and the temperatures typically generated by a street car isn’t that high enough, so it would be useless running a racing clutch on the street. Aside from that, due to the stronger clamping force, there is an increased pedal effort, due to the stiffer springs installed on the pressure plate and the disc. Moreover, they do not have as much friction material as compared to street clutches in order to save weight, making everyday start and stop driving a no-no, as they will wear out quickly. Some people can tolerate clutch chatter, heavy pedal effort, higher cost, and extreme modification. But why tolerate unnecessary issues when you do not have to. So choose the right clutch with better friction material than stock that is fit for track use, and yet still remain suitable for everyday driving. Some people can tolerate clutch chatter, or noise, or heavy pedal effort, or shorter clutch life, or higher cost, or extreme modifications tolerate unnecessary

The Differential and the L.S.D.

Located within the transaxle, the differential allows the rotational speed of your ride’s inner and outer drive axles to differ as needed to go around corners. However, when it is subjected to hard acceleration, only one wheel starts to spin, and there will be no torque delivered to the non-spinning axle, hence the single tire mark you got on the road during your last burnout. Now if you want to maximize your power-to-pavement effectiveness, your diff will need a limited slip differential (LSD). Depending on the make, a limited slip differential can either be composed of small multi-plate clutches, planetary gears, or the viscous type that is made up of fluids, but is said to be less efficient than the former two. The LSD is able to transmit torque in a roughly 50-50 split between the two driving axles. So that when you execute your burnout this time, your car will now leave behind two trails of burnt rubber, and if your car has to go around a corner the clutch plates or the gears disengage for a while so that the axles can turn independently with one another.

LSD Lingo

1-way LSD – The LSD comes into use once the throttle is stepped on.

1.5- way LSD – The LSD comes into use once the throttle is stepped on and when the
car is braking there is a slight LSD effect.

2-way LSD – The LSD comes into use whether the car is accelerating or braking.

Sometimes you will hear these terms used in the business of L.S.D. trading and the racing d

Shorty the Shifter

While it does not have anything to do directly with your Drivetrain, a short-shift kit can definitely improve your transmission’s performance by reducing the amount of arm movement required to make lightning-quick shifts, as well as the time it takes to throw the shift lever between gears. Now this is a simple bolt-on affair utilizing basic tools that almost anyone can do, that won’t cost you an arm and a leg. Short-shift kits are able to minimize the gear throw by changing the mounting points of the levers as compared to a stock lever, so that a smaller movement of the lever is achieved to change gears. A word of advice to the newbies; you have to punch the pedal faster to match the new speed of your hands rowing through the gears.

To Lighten or not to Lighten?

It is a racer’s mantra to make everything light on his car. However, when speaking about lightened flywheels, there is a bit of hesitation. So let us analyze the process and effect. When one is to subject a rotating mass like a flywheel into a weight reduction, the result would be that it would spin faster, and therefore make the engine feel more responsive. Sounds right, but only to a certain extent. Now why is that? You see, a flywheel stores inertia, which keeps the engine spinning whenever the clutch is disengaged, so that it does not fall too far out of its power band between shifts. However, if one were to put an over lightened flywheel it will not keep up with the engine revs, and you will struggle to get back into the power band every time you up shift. Most tuners make use of this trick in tandem with a lightened crankshaft that have both been balanced, and flitted with a counterweight to maximize the potential of the engine. However if you do decide to install a lightened flywheel do take into consideration that it will NOT give you any more power, so top speed, will remain unchanged. Although it WILL allow more power to reach the wheels under accelerating conditions because less energy is wasted accelerating the engines rotating parts.

Front Wheel Drive Axles

Now I have seen a fair share of snapped and broken axles as a result of too much shock loads imposed by a much stronger motor than what they used to drive before. Therefore, since it plays an important role into putting power to the pavement, it would be best to check on the condition of your axles, along with the CV joints paying close attention to the trunnion bearings for wear if you plan to strengthen your motor. Now some tuners try to adapt a much beefier axle by using a larger one from a bigger engine of the same make, and if they do not have the same number of splines or a difference in bolt patterns, they just have it, custom machined in order to make everything fit together. However, if you really want he real deal, then there is always the Driveshaft Shop in the States. Using only aircraft-grade chromoly it can’t get any harder than that and their tripod joints for the CV are three times larger in diameter than the factory ones. The shop can custom fabricate a very strong axle, depending on your cars power output, whereby their level one axle is good for up to 225 hp, all the way up to their level 5 axle that is capable of withstanding 600-plus hp.

RECARO
TS-G

Focusing on the needs of the track enthusiasts comes this motorsports derived TS-G lightweight shell seat from Recaro. The seat side allows smoother accelerator, brake, and clutch action with divided leg support. Support has been improved to the shoulder with the addition of a non slipping support. The angle of the back rest sleeps further compared with the RS-G and SP-G seats. Recommended for those who prefer a more reclined position for a lower eye point for the track. It is a very comfortable full bucket seat that firmly supports the waist surroundings. These seats also hold the driver with minimal vibration even with strong G-forces acting in all directions.

For Inquiries:
Excellar Enterprise, Inc.
(+63 2) 712.5373
Web: www.excellar-auto.com

H&R
SPORT SPRINGS

Give your Honda Civic that lowered look to match your up-sized rims with a set of H&R sport springs that’s not just for looks alone. H&R Sport Springs offer the handling characteristics and aggressive appearance that you’ve been looking for, without the harsh ride characteristics of less-advanced spring systems; making it the most popular spring kit in H&R’s line-up.

H&R Sport Springs are crafted from a special 54SiCr6 spring steel to ensure quality and performance with superb ride quality. H&R Sport Springs feature more control and are engineered for the street, making them comfortable and fun to drive. H&R’s line of Sport Springs will lower your vehicle an average of 1 – 2 inches for a lower center of gravity, improved handling and a more aggressive appearance. Sport springs feature more control than that of the OE Sport spring, but is still comfortable for daily use. H&R Sport springs are an excellent choice for street and occasional track use.

For Inquiries:
SPEEDLAB
(+632)3764648/3764651
E-mail: speedlab@speedlab.com

CLEAN ROLLERS
MOTHER’S
FX Line

What good would a shiny paint job be, if your wheels and tires are full dirt and grime? The solution is to treat them with Mother’s FX Line of wheel cleaner and tire shine. The FX wheel cleaner is a fast acting solution that gets rid of ugly brake dust is a snap. Just spray it on, wait for about a minute and then simply hose it off. What’s even great is that it’s safe to use on all wheel types. As for the tires, not only would they look good and clean but protected as well through advanced custom crafted polymers and coating agents that shield it against UV oxidation, brake dust and road grime.

For Inquiries:
Hart Int’l Co.
(+632)7445875
Email: Hart_Intl@yahoo.com

SpeedLab
Honda Civic R18 Turbo Kit

SpeedLab introduces their first complete 100% bolt on kit for the new Honda Civic 1.8L R18 engines equipped with either an automatic or manual transmission. The kit contains everything and installs in a about 10 days. Dyno proven to deliver an increase of 70hp-90hp.
The kit consists of the following:
- GT28 turbocharger
- Cast iron turbo manifold & outlet
- Stainless steel pipings
- Silicon hose couplers
- K&N high flow filter
- Front mount intercooler
- HKS or Greddy BOV
- Oil supply & return lines
- 590cc Injector
- Unichip piggyback engine management
- Labor and installation
- Dyno tuning
For Inquiries:
Speedlab
871 Quezon Ave. Quezon City
(+632)3764648/3764651
E-mail: speedlab@speedlab.com

SPLITFIRE
8.8MM SPARK PLUG CABLE

Get more performance and fuel economy from your engine by upgrading your OE wires with SplitFire’s twin core construction plug wires. This technology gives you a dual firing path towards each spark plug. SplitFire can deliver up to 15 times the ignition power of O.E. wire sets. More ignition power at the spark plug means improved combustion efficiency – so you can get more miles per gallon and more power at any RPM. SplitFire duplicates original equipment fit and out-performs any aftermarket wire set on the market. Application available for most car makes and models.

For Inquiries:
All-Inclusive Sales Inc.
(+632)5215921
Email:allines@allines.com.ph

BILSTEIN
SPORT SHOCKS

For the enthusiast driver who demands superior handling, the Bilstein Sport shocks and struts deliver the highest levels of control. An excellent match for vehicles with lowering springs or upgraded anti-roll bars, the Sport Series shocks and struts perform under demanding conditions. Additional advantages, based on development strongly influenced by the motorsport industry, include greater stability, better road handling, and accurate steering.

This combined with extremely high quality manufacturing and materials, means Bilsteins will last approximately four times as long as Original Equipment. The piston head design allows independent tuning of the compression and rebound damping forces to provide optimum ride comfort and performance without compromise. The product’s simple, yet exceptionally functional digressive design contributes to the extreme durability and long life of Bilstein Shock Absorbers.

For Inquiries:
Speedlab
(+632)3764648/3764651
E-mail: speedlab@speedlab.com

LIVIN’ LOUD
KICKER KS-Series
KS650.2, KS60.2, KS50.2
KS Component Speaker System

Give your car’s factory sound a serious power injection with a KICKER KS-Series Coaxial Speaker upgrade. With added improvements on the woofers and the tweaked tweeters, simply dropping them in where your factory speakers were seems like a no-brainer.

The curvilinear, gray woofer cones with a robust, Santoprene® surround, and newly designed basket give KS Coaxials the extra brawn to deliver a smooth, rich sound at any volume. Delivering the high notes is the half- and three-quarter-inch, Kaladex-domed tweeters that contain a stout neodymium magnet dipped in ferro fluid for maximum coolness, recreating highs that can rival real live performances.

KS Coaxes are available in 10 sizes, from the capable 3.5-inch up to the marine-ready 6 x 9. The line includes a specially designed 7-spoke speaker grille in a handsome dark gray finish that’s sure to spice up any car’s interior.

For Inquiries:
Winterpine Marketing
106 Kapiligan St.
Dona Imelda Village
Quezon City
(+632)7427839
www.winterpinegroup.com

This is truly more than just letting your car’s rear end hang out as there’s a theoretical approach on how to actually do it.

Origins

Its beginnings started as a competitive sport that catered to mountain-road racers of rural Japan. Informal challenges on mountain back roads (called “Touge”) eventually evolved into a heavily funded and advertised competitive event, sanctioned by organizations and held on private tracks. Initiated by Option magazine Japan and its video department V-Option, they created the popular D1 Grand Prix to catch and expand the drifting craze. Led by CEO Daijiro Inada, the Option D1GP has now broken into other venues like the States and other countries. Drifting actually started in America around ’02 a grassroots level among Club4AG members and has now exploded into a massively popular form of motorsport with the advent of the D1 GP. However, Japanese drifters are still considered to be at the cutting edge of technique and car development, but their American counterparts are quickly catching up, like Vince Gitten Jr (D1GP Champ), Rhys Millen, Samuel Hubinette, and Benson Hsu.

Definition

Drifting refers to the difference in the slip angle between the front and rear tires of a car. When the rear wheels are slipping at a greater angle than the front wheels, the car is said to be drifting, or oversteering. What happens is that the rear end of the car appears to chase the front end around a turn, as the driver utilizes both front tires and the rear tires to control the actual direction of the car. Adding more throttle induces more rear wheel slip angle and the rear of the car wants to overtake the front. Overall, the goal of the driver here is to achieve steering lock and use the throttle to fine tune the car’s angle and direction. Think of it as a controlled slide. Many of the techniques used today in drifting were developed by rally drivers who often competed on dirt, gravel and snow. Sliding around corners for rally racing was the only way to go faster around a corner as they normally raced on loose or slippery surfaces.

Drifting for Points

Nowadays, drifting has become a competitive sport where drivers have their own styles and techniques as they compete to keep their cars sideways for as long as possible. Drifting competitions are judged based not on the time it takes to complete a course, but how much slip angle a driver can get, how long can they hold it, and how close can they stay to the racing line, or to the wall. Keiichi Tsuchiya, a well known legend in the drifting world, is considered the father of drifting. Regarded as the “Drift King” (Dorikin), he is the official chief judge in the D1 Grand Prix Series. Final rounds of D1GP competition include tandem drift runs nicknamed “tsuiso” in Japanese, where one car follows another through the course, attempting to keep up with or even pass the car in front. In the “tsuiso” rounds, it doesn’t matter if the racing line is wrong, what matters is who can execute the most exciting drift. A car does not even have to keep up, because even though the other car is left behind on the straight, but managed to execute a spectacular drift, he can still win that round. However, a spin, understeer, or collision results in the disqualification of the offending party.

Drift Cars

Any rear-wheel drive car can be set up for drift competition, but must include the addition of a Limited-Slip Differential. Popular competition cars in the US include the Nissan 240SX, Nissan 350Z, Toyota Corolla GT-S (AE86), Mazda RX-7, and Honda S2000. In Japan, the top drift machines are the Nissan S13, S14, S15 Silvia, 180SX, Toyota AE86 Sprinter Trueno and Corolla Levin, Nissan Skyline (The 4-door sedan, RWD version, a.k.a. ER34), Toyota Altezza, Toyota Aristo, Nissan Z33, Fairlady Z, Nissan Cefiro (A31), Nissan Laurel, and Toyota Soarer. There is some debate over whether or not front-wheel-drive (FWD) vehicles can drift. By the technical definition (rear wheels slipping at a greater angle than front wheels), they are indeed able to drift. However, many consider FWD vehicles a poor choice for drifting, as the frequent use of the emergency brake (necessary to drift FWD cars) slows them down and makes them harder to control. 4WD vehicles, such as the Subaru Impreza WRX STi and Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution drift at a much different angle and are usually induced by power-over. As the front wheels are also driven on a 4WD vehicle there is a noticeable lack of counter steer.

Drifting Techniques

Braking Drift

This drift is performed when entering a corner to induce the car to “set” or shift its weight to cause the rear wheels to lose traction and drift. This is performed by braking before a corner while starting to turn in, vary the brake petal until loss of grip is obtained and then balance the oversteer through steering and throttle inputs to control and sustain the drift.

Power-Over Drift

This drift is performed when entering a corner at full throttle to produce heavy oversteer through the corner, it is the most typical drifting technique for All Wheel Drive (AWD) cars.

Inertia (Feint) Drift

This method is done by “rocking” the car much like a pendulum, whereby once the car is rocked towards the outside of a turn, you then use the inertia of the car to swing it back to the desired direction. By going away from the corner, and turning back in hard, you are now coming in the corner at a much sharper angle.

Hand-Brake Drift

This technique is very straightforward, upon entering a corner, pull the hand brake lever to induce traction loss at the rear wheels, and balance the drift through steering and throttle play. Some people argue that this method doesn’t actually create a drift but rather just a power slide. The bottom line here is that using the hand brake is no different from any other method of starting a drift. This method is generally the main technique to perform in a controlled drift when using Front Wheel Drive (FWD) cars.

Dirt Drop Drift

This is done by dropping the rear tires off the road into the dirt to maintain or gain drift angle without losing power or speed and to set up for the next turn. Only permissible on roads without barriers and lined with dirt or other materials which to lose traction. This is commonly done in WRC rallying.

Kansei Drift

This is performed at race speeds, when entering a high speed corner a driver lifts his foot off the throttle while slightly turning into a corner to induce a mild over steer and then balances the drift through steering, braking and throttle motions. (note: the car that is being used for this style of drift should be a neutral balanced car therefore the over steer will be induce when this technique is applied, if the car plows through any turn this technique will not work)

Shift Lock

This is performed by letting the revs drop upon downshift into a corner and then releasing the clutch to put stress on the driveline to slow the rear tires inducing oversteer. (This is like pulling the E-brake through a turn – note: this is best to be performed in the wet to minimize damage to the driveline etc)

Jump Drift

This technique is used to start a drift by letting the rear tire run on the inside of a turn or apex and letting it bounce over a rumble strip to help lose traction resulting in oversteer.

Clutch Kick

This is done by “kicking” the clutch (pushing in, then out) to send a shock through the powertrain, upsetting the car’s balance. It causes the rear wheels to slip and enables the driver to induce oversteer, thereby starting a drift.

Choku Dori

This is an advanced technique that involves using one of the previous techniques to start the drift, while using the hand brake to extend the drift into a turn. This is done by pulling the hand-brake through a straight to start a high angel drift while holding this angle to set up for the turn ahead. (note: this can only be done at high speeds)

Manji Drift

This is used while drifting on long straightaways. The driver of the car sways the car side to side (like a pendulum) while the car is in a drift, which looks impressive. It can be initiated through all the above techniques

Drift Spec Suspension Tune

Drift spec tuning gives emphasis towards making the car go sideways in a controllable state. The car needs to have a low centre of gravity and be able to spin the rear wheels with ease. This makes the car look good while going sideways.

Suspension: Setting is primarily for high grip on the front wheels and low or no grip on the rear wheels. Steering inputs need to be sharp and precise. Use of a quick rack or longer steering arms recommended. Use of stiff spring/shock rates is mandatory as this gives the car low grip levels, hence the ability to easily slide.

Brakes: Low-mid temperature brake pads recommended for front to give good initial bite which helps weight transfer to the front making the rear tires light thus being able to freely spin. Handbrake cable adjustment with ultra high grip disc/drum pads are required to effectively lock the rear wheels.

Performance: Top end (high RPM) response and power is required to hold the drift through the corners. Power tuning up top is highly recommended together with engine reliability. Large radiators and oil coolers are essential to combat over heating with the engine spinning at continuously high RPM level. As the car goes sideways.

Summary: Tuning of this level makes a very responsive and very maneuverable vehicle, with a twitchy characteristic. Power and braking levels are also high, with a very hard suspension setting.

Now you can alter the camber settings on your car, anytime, anywhere, whether for street or track use.

Camber Basics

Before we begin, let’s give a rundown on what camber is and how does this affect your car’s overall handling. Remember that camber angle is made by the wheel that exhibits itself either as, positive or negative. More specifically it is the angle between the vertical axis of the wheel and the vertical axis of the vehicle when viewed from the front or rear.

Positive camber is achieved when the top of the wheel is further out than the bottom.

Negative Camber is when the bottom of the wheel is further out than the top.

Negative camber as this diagram suggests is typically found on vehicles that are set up for track/autocross.

Camber angles alters the handling qualities of any suspension design, in particular negative camber improves grip when cornering, at the expense of premature inner tire wear. However in most cases, it is usually desirable to have the car adjusted for neutral steer, so that it responds quickly to a turn of the steering wheel, like the settings on production cars where car manufacturers tend to err towards positive camber to deliberately instill understeer onto its handling as this is deemed safer for inexperienced drivers.

The most common handling problems are:

Understeer

This is the condition when the front tires experience a loss in traction during a cornering situation, thus causing the car to head towards the outside of a corner.

Oversteer

This is the condition when the rear tires experience a loss in traction during a cornering situation, thus causing the rear end of the car to head towards a corner.

Bodyroll

This is the condition when the car’s body leans towards the outside of a curve, whereby this situation can cause the wheels on the inside of the wheel to be loaded with less tire grip that will contribute to an over or understeer situation.

Camber Angle                   Reduce Understeer                               Reduce Oversteer

Front camber                Increase negative camber                 Reduce negative Camber

Rear camber                  Reduce negative Camber                  Increase negative camber

Adjustable Camber Plates

These plates replace the topmost portion of your McPherson strut or coil-over.  Located on its center is what is called the pillowball mount. This allows the strut to move in such a way that it can be adjusted for different camber settings.  There are 2 Allen head type bolts on either side, that when loosened will enable one to move the strut inwards (Positive) or outwards (Negative) along with the plate.  Also located on the pillowball mounting plate is a graded mark that signifies how many degrees and if it is either negative or positive with 0 as the center. Simply line up the marker with the one on the plate with your desired camber setting and then tighten up the 4 Allen head bolts and that’s all there is to it.

The Objective

Don’t expect a dramatic improvement in handling by simply dialing in way too much camber.  Remember that in order to achieve the proper camber angle, the initial camber setting must be sufficient enough to compensate for camber lost due to body roll and suspension design. High performance settings normally dictate more negative camber and more positive caster. This is because both of this will help keep the wide tires more upright during cornering, thereby maximizing the tire’s contact patch on the pavement. However, camber angles greater than 3 degrees negative will affect transient handling (Takes too long for the tire’s sidewall to roll over and flatten out) and is indicative of that one should make suspension changes elsewhere. Bottom line here is that the interaction between driving conditions and suspension limitations dictates compromise.

Pros

No more inconsistent handling

Improved turn-in feel

Keeps the contact patch wider on the pavement

Perfect for vehicles that see autocross and track days

Enhances overall steering feel

Cons

Bit costly, but effective.

Too much negative camber will result into increased rolling resistance.

New Tech

Adjustable Camber Bolts by H&R

H&R’s new Triple C camber adjusters are a simple, yet very effective means of removing excessive camber, adjusting your vehicle’s camber settings, or even correcting small side-to-side camber variations for precise alignment. Consisting of a pair of specially-designed bolts, H&R’s patented Triple C camber adjusters replace the original upper fastening bolts on all McPherson strut applications. As the bolt is turned, a small cam eccentric alters the vehicle’s camber, allowing adjustments from 0-3 degrees, positive or negative. Installation takes only minutes with readily-available hand tools, and benefits include increased tire life, improved tracking and the ability to dial in more camber for weekend track events.

A classic Mini gets a large dose of VTEC Power

The Classic Mini originally came with a 34 bhp, 848 cc engine which was increased to 997, 998, 1071 and 1275 cc that boosted its power output up to 55 bhp in stock form. While it may not sound much as compared to today’s subcompacts that pack in more power, but if you factor in the Mini’s power to weight ratio, this will prove just how nimble it really is. Engine-wise, while those stock performance figures may sound just fine to the purist. But in the tuner world where anything is possible for the sake of increased performance, there’s only one solution to gain maximum performance from the lightweight Mini. This can only be achieved by shoehorning a modern, high revving engine onto the tight confines of the Mini as our featured Mini built by Autoplus and Motor Pro attests to. This build is no walk in the park as it makes use of a specialized subframe conversion kit in order to accommodate a B-Series Honda engine onto its platform that’s also enhanced with goodies such as: race-oriented dual-pot disc brakes, wider wheels, and adjustable suspension. These mods are a must in order to achieve every-day reliability with a strong emphasis in terms of all-around performance.

Once the conversion kit arrived, Autoplus sportzentrium was given the task of putting it together. Aside from the subframe kit, the swap also necessitated a one piece, fiberglass, tilt front end because the hood and the front fenders must be stretched forward four inches to accommodate the Honda engine and radiator. The longer front end is not noticeable until you’re told it’s there, so it doesn’t alter the original looks of the Mini. The exterior is made even more muscular with the wider wheel arches, where Motor Pro autoclinique was tasked to massage the body as they sprayed it with an impeccable dark metallic blue paint finish set against a contrasting white colored roof using DuPont automotive refinishes.

The specialized conversion kit may be responsible for the swap, but it’s what’s nestled in between the subframe that truly makes this hybrid Mini a screamer. A stock B18 Honda already puts out a decent amount of power, but when you employ the services of renowned race engine builder/engineer Francisco “Pacho” Blanco, to blueprint/build the engine. Better make sure that your brakes and suspension are up to the task. The stout Honda bottom end was rebuilt using the stock pistons, crank, and rods together with aftermarket bearings and fasteners. High Performance cylinder head work is one of Mr. Blanco’s specialties, and this one features his Stage 2 porting job that’s accomplished with the aid of Autoplus’ Superflow flowbench that accurately measures the amount of airflow in each chamber. Orchestrating the Type-R valvetrain is a pair of Spoon camshafts with a 2-degree advance on the intake side and a 1-degree advance on the exhaust side to achieve a more favorable powerband according to Mr. Blanco. The rev limit is set at 9800rpm, while the VTEC kicks in at 5200 rpm. Together with the stock ECU, this mill has been dyno tuned by Francisco Blanco to put out 190 wheel horsepower. As is the case with all tuners, we all know that there’s plenty more where that came from. Most especially when your engine builder recently happened to motivate an Evo5 with 813 wheel horsepower and 623 lb-ft of torque that enabled it to post an unbelievable quarter-mile time of 9.6 seconds. Chances are that this Mini will just keep on getting faster and faster as it truly epitomizes the ultimate pocket rocket.

Engine: Honda B18C5 1.8-liter DOHC VTEC Rebuilt and blueprinted by Francisco “Pacho” Blanco, Spoon camshafts, cam gears, valve springs, and retainers, Type-R valves, Autoplus Stage 2 headworks, PAD 65mm throttle body, HKS Super Power Flow Air filter, Autoplus custom stainless steel exhaust system, Spoon 4-1 exhaust header, modified intake manifold, aluminum radiator.
Suspension: Front subframe conversion, Adjustable front suspension, Bilstein dampers, custom rollcage, Superbrake disc brake conversion kit (Dual-pot calipers with 8.4” Rotors), Braided Steel Brake Lines, Wilwood race pedals and Tilton master cylinders.
Interior: Autometer “Classic Style” gauges, 4-point roll cage, Billet aluminum door handles and window risers, Air-con kit, McIntosh MX406 head unit, McIntosh MC420M (4CH) Power Amplifier, Pioneer TS0690R 3-way rear speakers (6x9”), Focal Polyglass front speaker set
Exterior: Fiberglass, one piece, tilt front end kit with Dzus fasteners, Fiberglass wheel arches and front spoiler, Mini Style fog lamps (4pcs), John Cooper emblems and union jack flag decal, Courtesy light, Custom DuPont automotive refinish by Motor Pro autoclinique
Wheels: MWS alloys 13x7”, Yokohama A539 tires 175/50/R13

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SPEEDLAB
HONDA POWER PACKAGE

Looking for more power through bolt ons? The SpeedLab Honda Civic Power Package is complete system guaranteed to give you up to 20% more power over stock. First is the SpeedLab K&N short ram intake system that removes the stock and restrictive airbox, allowing more airflow for the engine. Next is the SpeedLab stainless steel header and midpipe, this replaces the undersized and convoluted stock exhaust piping, allowing exhaust gases a speedier exit freeing up even more power. And finally there’s the Unichip piggyback fuel and ignition timing computer. By adjusting the optimum fuel delivery and when the spark plug fires, the Unichip can optimize your engine’s combustion process giving you more power, better throttle response, faster acceleration as well as improving fuel consumption. Log on to www.speedlab.com.ph to view the dyno charts.

For Inquiries:
SPEEDLAB
871 Quezon Ave. Quezon City
(+632)3764648/3764651
E-mail: speedlab@speedlab.com

RECARO
Sportster CS

The ultimate sports seat – in hybrid construction – developed for true motor sport fans who do not want to compromise functionality and comfort or those who seek the latest technology packaged in a
sleek and elegant sports seat. RECARO’s latest sports seat, the ‘Sportster CS’ is available with an integrated universal side airbag – safety and sporting flare for a perfect combination of a racing shell and a sport seat.

This luxurious ‘comfort seat’ was aimed squarely at the “frequent driver” target group, offering them the latest technology in road safety. RECARO’s Stuttgart-based engineering team used the synergies and experience gained from “ergonomics” and “motorsport” to maximum effect, developing the world’s most technologically advanced and comfortable sports seat, effectively a reclining racing shell.

For Inquiries:
Excellar Enterprise, Inc.
73 N. Roxas corner Banawe Sts.
Quezon City, MM., 1114, Philippines
(+63 2) 712.5373 to 74 / 712.5379 to 80
Web: www.excellar-auto.com

Slime Smart Spair™ Tire Repair Kit
REPAIR FLAT TIRES IN A SNAP

As hundreds of thousands of motorists hit the roads, flat tires should be the furthest thing from their minds—and can be made possible—with Slime’s Smart Spair tire repair kit. This handy tire repair kit comes with a powerful 300 PSI air compressor, a 16-ounce bottle of Slime Super Duty Sealant and a complete air valve tool kit, the Smart Spair tire repair kit is a must-have for road trips.

The Smart Spair tire repair kit fixes at least 85-percent of all flat tires. The compact kit replaces the spare tire, jacks and tools that help lower the overall weight of the vehicle and free up valuable trunk space.

The portable, 12-volt air compressor boasts 300 PSI of power and plugs directly into the vehicle’s cigarette lighter, significantly reducing the time it takes to fix or change a flat tire. In this simple process, there is no need to remove the tire or jack up the car. Slime sealant is inserted into the tire through the tire valve stem, and the compressor is used to inflate the tire while the driver waits safely inside the car. Within minutes the puncture is sealed, the tire is completely inflated and the car is ready to hit the road again. The estimated time the motorist will spend fixing the tire is less than ten minutes. Smart Spair tire repair kit is available at all Blade outlets and Hans Tools.

For Inquiries:
Hart International, Co.
322 Santolan Road, Brgy Little Baguio
San Juan
Telefax: 632-744-5875
Website: http://www.HARTINTL.com
Email: Hart_Intl@yahoo.com

BORLA
Boomer Mufflers

BORLA Boomers are full-blown, high-tech, dyno and race-proven mufflers for the street or track. These eye-popping, fully polished mufflers utilize BORLA’s patented race-winning technology. They boost horsepower levels from 7% – 10% while adding that distinct head-turning sound. Available in a variety of sizes and universal-fit styles, BORLA Boomers are made of aircraft-quality high quality stainless steel and include a Million Mile Warranty.

For Inquiries:
XENON-BULBS
20 G.Araneta Ave.
Quezon City
(+632)7160348/7131998

HKS
SSQV Blow-Off Valve Version-2

Highly distinguishable through its newly designed casing, this is the latest Blow-Off Valve from HKS. Unlike other conventional push type blow-off valves, the HKS Version-2 SSQV is a dual stage pull-type relief valve. This guarantees that it will not leak under any boost level because the boost pressure in the chamber keeps the valve closed against its seat. The SSQV releases excess boost when there is a pressure alteration in the chambers, and not by the rate of boost pressure or vacuum in the line. This ensures a quick valve response and complete closure during idle. For maximum performance, the HKS SSQV incorporates both a small primary valve for ultra quick activation, and a larger secondary valve for additional discharge capacity. The Version-2 features a unique finned design and is constructed from billet aluminum to ensure long-term durability and a high luster look. The triple-fin discharge port design produces a powerful, unique and aggressive blow-off sound. The HKS SSQV is available as a universal kit or vehicle specific kits.

For Inquiries:
Emperor Motorsports
#128 Ortigas Home Depot
Julia Vargas St.
Pasig City
(+632)914.0125
E-mail: emperor_motorsports@yahoo.com

SpeedLab
Honda Civic R18 Turbo Kit

SpeedLab introduces their first complete 100% bolt on kit for the new Honda Civic 1.8L R18 engines equipped with either an automatic or manual transmission. The kit contains everything and installs in a about 10 days. Dyno proven to deliver an increase of 70hp-90hp.

The kit consists of the following:
- GT28 turbocharger
- Cast iron turbo manifold & outlet
- Stainless steel pipings
- Silicon hose couplers
- K&N high flow filter
- Front mount intercooler
- HKS or Greddy BOV
- Oil supply & return lines
- 590cc Injector
- Unichip piggyback engine management
- Labor and installation
- Dyno tuning

For Inquiries:
Speedlab
871 Quezon Ave. Quezon City
(+632)3764648/3764651
E-mail: speedlab@speedlab.com

SpeedLab
Mazda 3/Ford Focus Header

Long runner design is designed to extract maximum horsepower from you Mazda 3 or Focus. Full TIG welded stainless steel construction will not rust. Our headers delete the catalytic converter and feature provisions for both primary and secondary O2 sensors. 100% bolt on installation with no cutting or welding. Dyno proven to give 10-15hp gains. SpeedLab headers will fit all Mazda 3 models (1.6L and 2.0L) as well as all Ford Focus models (1.6L, 1.8L and 2.0L)

For Inquiries:
Speedlab
871 Quezon Ave. Quezon City
(+632)3764648/3764651
E-mail: speedlab@speedlab.com

ULTIMATE DUSTER

From the same company who brought the ultimate cleaning cloths, Microtex now unveils their latest product which is their Ultimate Duster. With specially processed cotton mop strands coated with paraffin wax to maintain the vehicle’s luster and shine, the Ultimate Duster from Microtex is designed to offer excellent dusting capabilities and guaranteed not to scratch even the most delicate paint jobs. The Ultimate Duster is also maintenance free as it does not need cleaning or washing to maintain its efficiency.
For Inquiries:
Halden Galway Intl. Corp.
483 Barcelona St.
San Nicolas, Manila
(+632)2445538
E-mail: halden_microtex@emailaccount.com

DUPONT
CARNAUBA WAX

Maintain your vehicle’s paint job with DuPont’s premium Carnauba Wax to produce an extra long lasting glossy appearance while removing and protecting the paint surface against harmful road grime, bugs, grease, and dirt. Periodic use will also help fill in minor swirls and scratches from your paint to further beautify your vehicle. DuPont’s Carnauba Wax is easy to apply and contains no abrasive materials. Regular waxing is also recommended during the rainy season to prevent the buildup of harmful contaminants.

For Inquiries:
Highland Trading
124 Unit-4 Pelbell II Bldg.
Shaw Blvd. Pasig City
(+632)6355195 to 97
E-mail: highland@globenet.com.ph